Here's a little video showing a short (3 mile) downwind run from Nick's Cove to Marshall Beach. I believe wind was gusting about 15-20 mph out of the nw so these conditions were really nice for a fun downwinder. There was enough wind to create some nice runners but nothing too extreme. This is my first try at making some downwind videos so it's a little rough but I hope it gives you a good idea of just how much fun downwinders on a SUP can be.
SUP Downwinder - Tomales Bay from jeff burton on Vimeo.
Tuesday, August 27, 2013
Monday, August 26, 2013
Ke Nalu Molokai Paddle Review
A paddle is a peculiar thing. It's a simple, ancient device yet it works pretty well. We can move the board with it, we can even use it to keep ourselves from falling off the board. We always keep both hands on the paddle so it's all about that elusive "feel". What feels good to you might not feel good to me. Let's not forget that something that feels good may not be the most efficient for us but then again, does that really matter? In addition, something that doesn't feel good today might feel good in a few weeks. Is that because it was good all along and it took time to adjust to it? Perhaps it's still not very good but because it feels more familiar, it's somehow a better paddle. Again, I will ask the question: does it really matter? I don't know. What I DO know is that the first time I paddled with my Ke Nalu Molokai, I absolutely HATED it. Please keep reading.
I'm picky about a lot of things: movies, sunglasses, shoes, socks, and paddles. I don't like house brand paddles. By that, I don't like generic paddles with a board manufacturer's sticker on them. Everyone has seen or used these paddles. You see them from Naish, Surftech, Starboard, etc. All the big brands have them. They are okay and most of them work pretty well I guess but these guys are not in the paddle business, they are in the board business. Everything else is an accessory. I like paddles made by a paddle company. I like Quickblade, Werner, Kialoa, and Ke Nalu. You thought I hated the Ke Nalu? I did. I was very disappointed. It was splashy and wobbled like crazy during the power phase of the stroke. It felt really hard to pull out of the water. I liked the light weight and I liked the looks but that was it. By the third session with it though, I started to figure it out.
The Ke Nalu will punish a poor stroke. All of the power comes from the catch and the first part of the power phase. When your feet reach the paddle, you need to start your exit. A SUP paddle has an offset to allow you to lift the paddle without scooping water at the end of your stroke. Lifting water is a lot of hard work and no pay off. Lifting water takes energy and it slows you down by pushing your board deeper in the water, creating more drag. The Ke Nalu does not have as much off-set, therefore you need to focus on the catch and release at your feet. I believe the off-set goes from 9 degrees at the shaft to 3 degrees at the tip.
Hundreds of people have commented on Ke Nalu paddles on the standup zone forum. There are hundreds of pages. I would say that 99.5% of the reviews are positive. Most people rave about them. Here are some pros and cons based on my own experience with the Molokai:
PROS
I'm picky about a lot of things: movies, sunglasses, shoes, socks, and paddles. I don't like house brand paddles. By that, I don't like generic paddles with a board manufacturer's sticker on them. Everyone has seen or used these paddles. You see them from Naish, Surftech, Starboard, etc. All the big brands have them. They are okay and most of them work pretty well I guess but these guys are not in the paddle business, they are in the board business. Everything else is an accessory. I like paddles made by a paddle company. I like Quickblade, Werner, Kialoa, and Ke Nalu. You thought I hated the Ke Nalu? I did. I was very disappointed. It was splashy and wobbled like crazy during the power phase of the stroke. It felt really hard to pull out of the water. I liked the light weight and I liked the looks but that was it. By the third session with it though, I started to figure it out.
The Ke Nalu will punish a poor stroke. All of the power comes from the catch and the first part of the power phase. When your feet reach the paddle, you need to start your exit. A SUP paddle has an offset to allow you to lift the paddle without scooping water at the end of your stroke. Lifting water is a lot of hard work and no pay off. Lifting water takes energy and it slows you down by pushing your board deeper in the water, creating more drag. The Ke Nalu does not have as much off-set, therefore you need to focus on the catch and release at your feet. I believe the off-set goes from 9 degrees at the shaft to 3 degrees at the tip.
Hundreds of people have commented on Ke Nalu paddles on the standup zone forum. There are hundreds of pages. I would say that 99.5% of the reviews are positive. Most people rave about them. Here are some pros and cons based on my own experience with the Molokai:
PROS
- Very lightweight - A light paddle is a wonderful thing!
- Modular - You can pick between different grips, different shafts, and different blades based upon your body size, experience, preferences, etc.
- Innovative design - ferrule system, complex blade shape, hot glue assembly - makes swapping out components a breeze.
- Sharkskin texture on the shaft for grip. Why doesn't everyone do this?
- Looks - Shiny carbony goodness
- Customer service
CONS
- Expensive - one of the most expensive on the market as far as I know.
- You have to assemble the three pieces together with hot glue. Your pieces come pre-glued but either mine didn't have enough or I just didn't let it get hot enough so I had to add more glue. Of course, I over did it and made a mess. It took me a while, but I finally cleaned it up.
- You have to cut the shaft yourself. It can be scary if you are not good with hand tools. The fragments are sharp as glass so be sure to sand your edges.
- Not really a con, but the shaft is a smaller diameter than you might be used to. I have big hands but I really like it. I reminds me to loosen my death grip.
Overall, a great paddle. I love the bigger blade of the Molokai for downwinders. I also use it for racing. I like that Ke Nalu is a small player in the market. They thought about ways to improve the SUP paddle, and did. I also like that if I happen to break it, I can just replace the broken piece (blade, shaft, or handle) without trashing the whole paddle. I would not recommend this paddle to a beginner though, or would I? Maybe some punishment to help you refine your stroke is not a bad thing.
Friday, August 23, 2013
NorCal Downwinders: Santa Cruz County's Finest - Four Mile to Town
NorCal Downwinders: Santa Cruz County's Finest - Four Mile to Town: Considered by many to be the premier downwinder on Santa Cruz County's north coast, the Four Mile to town (Santa Cruz) run possesses pos...
Friday, August 16, 2013
SUP Downwinder: What is it?
Here's the introduction to my soon to be released ebook on SUP downwinding! When it's ready, I will be sure to link it to this blog. I'm doing a final edit tonight and will release it next week. Anway, here's a little taste.
Downwind paddling is a one-way trip using the wind and
waves to help propel you forward. It
combines elements of surfing, touring, and racing all into one fun sport. The
wind at your back helps you maintain a high average speed, while catching bumps
gives you bursts of extra speed and, well, something you just have to
experience yourself! Be aware though, a
downwind run can be super fun, challenging, or downright dangerous depending on
the conditions.
Essential skills include: ability to adjust trim, good bracing, good
cardio, ability to quickly get back on your board when you fall, good trip
planning, and the ability to paddle
upwind. Surfing or rough water paddling
experience is big plus.
A downwind run is not a lazy sight seeing trip, it’s a
lot of hard work. It’s extreme
multi-tasking – constantly scanning the
water, paddling in short but all-out bursts,
using subtle strokes to adjust heading, bracing, moving around on the
board, trying to connect bumps all while trying to not fall in the cold water
right on top of that shark that is surely right under your board! It’s hard but rewarding work!
This is not flat water paddling where you just put your head down and
paddle as hard as you can. Good downwind
paddlers are efficient paddlers. They know when to paddle
and when not to paddle. They never
paddle “uphill”, they are always scanning the water looking for a free ride
“downhill”. They are not afraid to
change course to find a better bump to ride.
Their feet are never glued to the board, they are experts at adjusting
trim. The experienced downwind paddler
is looking to get the most speed with the least amount of work. They are trying to get the board to plane,
that is, to skim across the water using only the wind and the waves. This is where the magic happens. This is where you want to be and what keeps
you coming back for more. This is the
sensation that surfers crave, the glide, the release of the board from the
water. Paddling on the water is fun, no
doubt about that. Skimming across the
water with the wind at your back is something else entirely.
Tuesday, July 2, 2013
Archimedes’ Principle
I'm 6'5" tall and about 235 pounds. I am bigger than most paddlers that I know. I'm bigger than most people I know. It has it's advantages and disadvantages. I hit my head on things a lot, I have trouble finding clothes that fit properly. I also have trouble with riding smaller boards.
Archimedes's principle, physical law of buoyancy, states that any body completely or partially submerged in a fluid (gas or liquid) at rest is acted upon by an upward, or buoyant force, the magnitude of which is equal to the weight of the fluid displaced by the body. What this means in simple terms (trust me I'm no physicist) is that an immersed object is buoyed up by a force equal to the weight of the fluid it displaces. SUP boards are generally either classified as "displacement" hulls or "planing" hulls, though both shapes displace water.
A really simple formula would be: Board Weight + Paddler Weight + Gear Weight must not be equal to or greater than the weight of the water being displaced.
You don't really think about this number or the weight of the water (about 8.35 pounds per gallon). What you do think about is how the board feels under your feet. A board with a higher volume will generally be able to carry more weight without becoming unstable. Other factors impact stability as well, like board length, board width, rail shape, bottom shape, fin shape, water conditions, wind, etc.
What all of this means is that bigger people generally need bigger boards. "Bigger" can be longer, wider or thicker than normal. Maybe someone like me could ride a 10' x 36" x 6" as easily as a 17' x 28" x 5". Of course these board are going to be designed for different purposes with the 10 footer being better in white water or surf while the 17'er is going to be must faster and will track better in flatter conditions. As an extreme example, let's take me at 6'5" (high center of gravity) and 235 pounds riding a drop-stitch constructed inflatable that measures 10'6" x 32" x 4". It sounds about right until you consider the construction. This board is constructed with lots of nose and tail rocker so even unweighted, only about 9 feet of the board touches the water so now the actual (water touching) dimensions are 9' x 32" x 4", quite a bit smaller but probably do-able. Now, let's add me the rider to the board; all 235+ pounds to the center of the board. Because of the construction, the board will bend in the middle so now only about 8 feet of the board touches the water. In addition to being less buoyant, the board is not going to handle well and tracking will be difficult and slow.
What I'm trying to say is that we should consider these factors when board shopping. When just starting out, get a board that fits you and the conditions in which you paddle.
Archimedes's principle, physical law of buoyancy, states that any body completely or partially submerged in a fluid (gas or liquid) at rest is acted upon by an upward, or buoyant force, the magnitude of which is equal to the weight of the fluid displaced by the body. What this means in simple terms (trust me I'm no physicist) is that an immersed object is buoyed up by a force equal to the weight of the fluid it displaces. SUP boards are generally either classified as "displacement" hulls or "planing" hulls, though both shapes displace water.
A really simple formula would be: Board Weight + Paddler Weight + Gear Weight must not be equal to or greater than the weight of the water being displaced.
You don't really think about this number or the weight of the water (about 8.35 pounds per gallon). What you do think about is how the board feels under your feet. A board with a higher volume will generally be able to carry more weight without becoming unstable. Other factors impact stability as well, like board length, board width, rail shape, bottom shape, fin shape, water conditions, wind, etc.
What all of this means is that bigger people generally need bigger boards. "Bigger" can be longer, wider or thicker than normal. Maybe someone like me could ride a 10' x 36" x 6" as easily as a 17' x 28" x 5". Of course these board are going to be designed for different purposes with the 10 footer being better in white water or surf while the 17'er is going to be must faster and will track better in flatter conditions. As an extreme example, let's take me at 6'5" (high center of gravity) and 235 pounds riding a drop-stitch constructed inflatable that measures 10'6" x 32" x 4". It sounds about right until you consider the construction. This board is constructed with lots of nose and tail rocker so even unweighted, only about 9 feet of the board touches the water so now the actual (water touching) dimensions are 9' x 32" x 4", quite a bit smaller but probably do-able. Now, let's add me the rider to the board; all 235+ pounds to the center of the board. Because of the construction, the board will bend in the middle so now only about 8 feet of the board touches the water. In addition to being less buoyant, the board is not going to handle well and tracking will be difficult and slow.
What I'm trying to say is that we should consider these factors when board shopping. When just starting out, get a board that fits you and the conditions in which you paddle.
Thursday, June 27, 2013
Making the Board Move
When we take our board to the water we are usually trying to get somewhere (unless it's a yoga session). It could be out to a surf break, a favorite fishing spot, a hidden cove, or the next bend in the river. In order to get the board (and ourselves) where we want to go, we use our paddle. We plant the blade of our paddle into the water and pull ourselves (and our board as we are standing on it) past our blade. Sounds simple doesn't it? It doesn't always look simple though, sometimes it looks very complicated. Just take a look at Danny Ching doing a buoy turn while racing, Dan Gavere executing an eddy turn in whitewater, Zane Schweitzer doing a 360 in the waves, and Dave Kalama linking bumps on a downwinder. What they are able to do with a high degree of expertise is make the board do what they want it to do at exactly the right moment. It's that simple. Really, it's that simple. There are a finite number of things a board can do:
- sit still
- sink a rail, nose, tail
- move forward and backward
- move right or left
- spin clockwise or counterclockwise
What's really important here is how we link these actions together using our weight transfers and paddle strokes while at the same time, we have to also be aware of how the water and wind conditions impact these actions. Let's say I'm on a downwind run and I see few little bumps right ahead of me. I increase my cadence to catch up to the bump using short, rapid strokes. I shuffle my feet forward to put a little more weight on the front of the board and I feel the board accelerate down the face of the bump, now my weight is too far forward and nose starts to pearl, I have to quickly get weight off the nose and back on the tail so I take a big step back with my right foot and stop paddling. I now have good trim on the bump and I drag my paddle for stability and to help me turn the board a bit. By now, the bump is starting to pass me by so I move forward again in hopes of catching the bump that was right behind that one. All of this happens rather quickly but if I pay attention and I'm not too winded, perhaps I can link two or three of these bumps together for a long and really fun ride!
To catch these bumps, I just sink the nose a bit, make the board go forward quickly using short rapid-fire strokes, then put some weight on the tail to ride the bump. That's it, and if I can do this a few times during a run, I am smiling and laughing like a little kid. I'm smiling now just thinking about it.
Hat tip to the ACA and Robin Pope for this great article about teaching tips for kayaking. Take the time to read the whole article here.
Sunday, June 9, 2013
February 12th!!
Oh boy, I just checked out the ole blog and see that I've been slacking. It's tough these days what with email, Face Book, smart phones, work, the commute, family and all that stuff. Enough excuses, I'm going to get busy on this blog thing once again. I have a few stories to write up along with some videos and pictures. I'm going to talk about all sorts of stuff like:
- Meet Up Groups
- Downwinders on Tomales Bay
- Downwinders on Maui's North Shore
- New gear
- Old gear
- Fins!
- Rescue scenarios
- Bunch of other stuff
I've been paddling a lot lately and having loads of fun. I'm continually learning new things about where I paddle, and how I paddle. I'm working on being a better instructor too.
ps - The Adidas watershoes are holding up great!
(obligatory blog post pic below)
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